How much would a cheap M1 Garand cost?

How much would a cheap M1 Garand cost?

For a Garand in decent condition, anything under $1000 would be cheap. You can get Garands from the Civilian Marksmanship Program for about $700 to $900, or more than $1000 for the nice ones.
Anything less than $600 or $700, I’d examine closely, as there’s a good chance it’s useless junk.

If you’re lucky, the owner might not know what he has, and you might get a great Garand for a steal, but be careful. Years ago, I found a Garand for sale for $800 at a gun show. It looked rough, so I asked to examine the inside.

The owner said only if I knew how to put it back together, from which I surmised he didn’t know how. Also, he was mostly selling archery stuff. The inside of the Garand was beautiful; the barrel had four lands, grooves, and a star, meaning it had been re-barreled with a match barrel sometime after WWII.

However, the sight was loose, and a few things rattled. I talked him down to about $750, took it home, and was pleased to find the sight screws just needed tightening. I could tune it up without more parts; it required some care. So that was a steal; it probably could have gone for $1200 to $1400 or more if he’d known what he had.

The last Garand I found for less than $600 would have taken a few hundred dollars in parts to get it in proper working order, which is doable if you know how to do that bit of gunsmithing. Garands are great rifles, but they’re expensive as they get older, and fewer remain in good order.

M1 Grand. The last time I saw one for sale in a store, it was for $300. It looked worn out. I did not buy it. That was a few years ago. They are over $600 now. That is just a guess. I did buy an M1 carbine.

Absolute minimum, with missing parts like sights, sling swivels, and a butt plate, along with some cracks in the furniture, but still able to shoot? It could be as little as $350 if the buyer is motivated to sell.

A complete rifle without too much pitting and at least a trace of rifling left in the barrel? I wonder if you’d find such a rifle for less than $500, and that’s if you’re fortunate. Finding any Garand for under $750 takes a lot of patience. CMP has yet to have any rifles available for less than $1000.

A cheap M1 Garand can vary in price depending on its condition, authenticity, and where it’s being sold. Generally, you can expect to pay anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars for a used or surplus M1 Garand.

It’s important to note that prices can fluctuate based on market demand and availability. If you’re interested in purchasing an M1 Garand, it’s recommended to thoroughly research reputable sellers and ensure compliance with local laws and regulations regarding firearm ownership and sales.

They are not cheap anymore; I see beat-up ones still expensive. It is December 2023, and Garands went up in price and, continues to rise in price; even the Italian Garands are doing well as holding investments, not to mention a complete Springfield Armory standard 30 caliber, the Garands with a SA stamped black walnut stock alone from the world war is a significant investment nowadays. I have to put mine away for this reason; I plan to build a Dupage stock M1 in 30.06 for a daily driver to the range.

How much does an M1 Garand cost?

The last one I bought over 20 years ago cost nearly $1,000. Today, you can still get them for about $1,500.

Is the “Gigachad” a real person?

I remember when you could buy them for $200 about 40 years or so ago.

Anyway, today, about $1,400-$1,500.

Given it has no provenance, the primary consideration is serviceability, condition and what contracted company manufactured it. Matching numbers is a big deal but not a stopper. A safe but bone ugly from a high-volume producer may still be found for a couple hundred bucks.

It may need some work, but it will be appreciated slowly. A lovely, lightly fired walnut stock with a near-perfect parkerized finish by Winchester may go for $2,500.

A respectable example can be had for a grand. All parts are readily available, like new, used, new, never issued, and improved aftermarket. All original accessories are available. Unless all you want is a wall-hanger curio relic, you get what you pay for if you know what you’re doing.

Be careful; a lot of good-looking examples have modern hot load damage. This is a heavy sword, an excellent battle rifle with its personality and charm. There are more suitable designs for everything you may intend to use it for, including battle. Acquiring a suitable serviceable firearm on the cheap is a risky business. Correctly investing in a “collector’s item” is expensive.

CMP Garands are the best value right now at $650 and up for Rack grade and is a perfectly serviceable rifle. I have seen these rifles, and they are of excellent value. You’d be hard-pressed to find similar rifles under $900 from a dealer.

Which M1 Garand is worth the most?

This one. This one is right here. $287,500

Serial Number 1,000,000.

Why is this the most expensive M1 Garand? It was the rifle given to John Garand upon his retirement at Springfield, and it was sold at a Rock Island auction. Someone truly paid $287,500 for this rifle, and it’s on record.

I doubt another M1 Garand will sell for more than this rifle. JFK’s National Match M1 Garand (A rifle owned and shot by President John F Kennedy) only sold for $149,500.

How much does an M1 Garand cost?

These days, the Civilian Marksmanship Program sells a “Service Grade” M-1 Rifle for around $750.00. These guns have been inspected and repaired and are in generally good shape. Various eligibility requirements are listed on the CMP website and a mandatory background check.

I still own a Garand that I bought from the Director of Civilian Marksmanship (the predecessor of today’s CMP). Back in the 1980s, the price was around $130. I had to prove membership in a DCM-affiliated gun club with proof of my involvement in the competition, and there was a pretty rigorous background check involving fingerprinting and the FBI. The process back then took about a year. I gather the process has been speeded up some since then.

The low cost and ready-to-use condition of these rifles made them attractive to me and my fellow club members. Even at today’s higher prices, the CMP rifles compare favourably with the ones that I see at gun shows. If you choose to go a different route, please be careful; there are still “rewelded” M-1s out there that were assembled on receivers that were previously cut up for scrap and reimported rifles that often have been refinished to look half decent but are otherwise in awful shape.

What exactly is an M1 Garand Thumb?

The process of loading the M1 Garand is to push an “en-bloc clip” that holds 8 rounds into the top of the action, then pull the op-rod back slightly, and the bolt stop disengages, releasing the bolt.

M1 Thumb is where pushing the en-bloc clip down until it engages, the bolt stop slips out of engagement, allowing it to slam forward with the shooter’s thumb still in the way. This causes a squished thumb quite often enough to require stitches.

One is supposed to use the heel of your hand to prevent the bolt from slamming forward, but sometimes, a shooter doesn’t quite have his hand placed correctly, or the bolt “slips past” the shooter’s hand.

I’ve only had “M1 Thumb” once, during cleaning, not loading… and I was lucky that it was the bolt slipping out of my greasy fingers from halfway, not getting a “full running start”. It hurt but didn’t injure.

How does the M1 Carbine compare to the M1 Garand?

The M-1 Carbine was initially designed as an upgrade for the .45 Colt Model 1911 pistol to provide those in rear areas a little more firepower than the gun offered. It fired a .308 calibre bullet in a case roughly 1.25″ in length. The overall size of its ammo is 1.65″.

The M-1 Garand is a full-sized battle rifle. It also fires a .308 calibre bullet, but its case is roughly 2.5″ long. The overall length of its ammo is 3.34″.

What is it like to work with Nathan Fillion?

Quite a difference in power. From personal experience, the carbine is pretty wimpy regarding recoil. The Garand, on the other hand, kicks like a mule. You would always correct one for the other.

How much is an M1 Garand from the CMP? I am NJROTC. Would I even be able to purchase one?

Rifles from the CMP run the gamut from $700 to $4000. If you want a good one, bring 1100. You must be old enough and bring proof of training and membership in an affiliate organization—for example, my ID, DD214, and American legion membership qualifyify ase.

Is the CMP M1 Garand in rack condition worth the money? Would CMP replace the barrel before I receive it if I request it and pay the price for replacing the barrel?

A “rack grade” CMP M1 Garand is better than many non-CMP Garands you’ll find out there. I own one. Trust me, their “rack grade” definition is still a decent rifle. Their muzzle and throat measurements are “worst case”. I got a “field grade” M1 as an upgrade from the “rack grade” I had ordered, and it came with a new Criterion barrel and new walnut stock! My “rack grade” is a 1950 H&R M1 muzzle gauged at “1.5”.

This is what a “rack grade” M1 looks like: You will get a shootable rifle as a “rack grade” from the CMP. It is not going to suck. Most of the wear will be on the stock and surface metal. My friend’s rack-grade Springfield M1 looks like the stock had a cheese grater go over it, and there is more steel than blue, but it shoots perfectly fine. It is not going to win Service Rifle with it.

Order a “field grade” or higher if you want a new barrel. The odds are good you’ll get a rebuilt M1. The rifle the CMP sent me has no collectible value equal to a James River Armory rebuild, but it is an excellent shooter. The original condition H&R went into storage as a collectible.

It’s a $650 M1 Garand. Troll a gun show and take a good look at what dealers are selling CMP-marked rifles for. It’ll be the best $650 you’ll ever spend.

How much would a serial number 300 M1 Garand in mint condition cost?

The most expensive M1 to be sold brought in some $287,500 at auction. The rifle in question is in pristine condition, in a presentation case and owned by John Garand himself.

You’d probably be looking at around $100,000-$200,000 for a serial number of 300 in as perfect a condition as possible. It most likely wouldn’t bring in as much interest as the one owned by Garand.

That said, auctions are unpredictable things. The actual selling price may vary considerably on the day.

A 300 serial number would helpfully date the rifle in question to September 1937. Probably the 30th of September 1937, as the last rifle produced in that month was number 307

What were the pros and cons of the M1 Garand?

There is a lot of data on the M1 Garand. Some cons were related to ammo and topping off the ammo in the rifle. It does require ammo of a projectile of a certain weight and fuel to avoid bending the operating rod. Its gas system was “improved” at least once.

The Germans captured Garand’s and ammo but never seemed to cotton to them. According to them, the sights could have been more comfortable in combat. The pros were ease of use. Fire 8 rounds as fast as possible, ping, jam more ammo, and do it again. All could be done in the dark. It was reliable, too. Parts interchanged. The recoil was not wrong because of the gas system.

Is an M1 Garand suitable for home defence?

Is your house along the hedgerows in Northern France? Or anywhere near the Chosin Reservoir in North Korea? If so, then it might be good for that. Anywhere else? It’s a terrible choice for home protection.

  1. It’s far too powerful – Even if you hit the home invader, it’s going through them and out of your house. Unless you want to face a civil suit and a possible arrest, you don’t want to use such a large round for home defence.
  2. It’s heavy. If you go jogging every morning with the rifle at port position (across your chest), you’ll build up the muscles necessary to carry it routinely. Other than that, it’s heavy for a man and cumbersome for the average woman.
  3. It’s long – Like you aren’t quickly turning corners long. It would help if you were away from the intruder so they don’t grab the barrel long. It’s knocking things off of tables and shelves. It’s too long for use for interior home defence.
  4. Its recoil is pretty stiff – If you don’t correctly brace yourself, you are getting kicked. For a thin person or a small woman, it’s often unpleasant to fire, so they won’t practice with the weapon sufficiently to use it in their home defence plans.
  5. It’s more of a weapon than can be easily used by a child or a woman. If you are a single man of average build or larger, then you might be able to handle the rifle routinely. If you are a woman or teenager, it’s far too much for you, and you are likely to miss or hesitate to use it.

Frankly, there are far better, far lighter weapons with far lower amounts of recoil and won’t over-penetrate to the degree that an M1 Garand will. They should be considered well before you feel the Garand.

If you find yourself in a pitched battle in a cornfield or a zombie apocalypse, you’ll have the right tool for the job. In almost any other home defence situation, it’s way too much.

How would an M1 Garand do in a modern military?

It would do okay, but it would not be the best choice considering modern firearms. It has good punch and shooting distance, and an 8-shot magazine is going for it. It is heavy to carry, long, and more challenging to maneuver in tight situations. It would be better than nothing and better than the bolt action rifles it replaced. I would rather have a modern rifle like an M-14, scoped AR-15 or a good FN/FAL rather than an M-1 Garand.

What’s the difference between an M1 Garand and an M1A?

The M-1 Garand is a semi-automatic chambered in .30/06, using an 8-round en-bloc clip inserted into an integral (built-in) magazine. The M-1A is a semi-automatic civilian version of the M-14. It is chambered for the 7.62×51 NATO round. It is fed from a 20-round detachable magazine. While the M-14( and, therefore, the M-1A) is descended from the M-1, they are entirely different rifles, from gas systems to ammunition. M-1 Garand.

M-1 with 8 and en-bloc clip.

M-14 with 20 Rnd magazine ,and M-1 Garand.


7.62×51/.308Win. compared to .30/06.

How much would a used M14 cost?

Any genuine M-14 on the market would be a Title II weapon and on ATF’s registry. As far as I know, none were ever sold on the civilian market when they were available. That seems to leave only the ones made for the military so that they would be even rarer than hen’s teeth.

And since the supply of Title II weapons is frozen forever (or until the McClure-Volkmer Act of 1986 is repealed), such weapons are hideously expensive.

Think in the neighborhood of $25,000-$50,000, even in somewhat rough conditions.

Only a handful of even “converted” models out there are eligible for transfer, meaning they were made before May 19, 1986.

The civilian version, semi-automatic only, from Springfield Armory, is known as the M1-A1. Brand new, expect to pay around $1,400. And you rarely see them on the used market, either. But when you do, they sell for almost as much as they do brand new.

Which M1 Garand do collectors often seek when buying, and in what calibre?

All M1 Garands available to collectors are in .30-06 caliber. Well, and a few refits by the Navy to 7.62 NATO… Besides rare manufacturers, like International Harvester or Winchester M1… every Garand collector has one dream.

To find an original, pre-WWII, “gas trap” Garand. This was the original gas system with the muzzle-tapping gas cylinder and longer op-rod. They were all recalled and refitted to the standard M1 gas system before total production started. The number of surviving, entirely original gas trap M1s can be counted on one hand. There are dozens more that have been “restored” by collectors with newly made gas-trap parts, but ORIGINAL gas trap garlands? The rarest of the rare.

How accurate is the M1 Garand?

It depends on what you do to enhance it.

Even a standard-issue rifle can undergo a “poor man’s” accusation with surprising results. Here are some of the tricks you can do:

  1. Slightly peen the barrel splines to ensure a tight fit of the gas cylinder.
  2. Polish the gas cylinder and gas cylinder lock mating surfaces using fine Emory cloth and oil to eliminate gas blow-by.
  3. Epoxy the forward hand guard to the lower band to eliminate any barrel pressure caused by the hand guard rattling.
  4. Shim the space between the receiver and the lower stock under the “U” shaped tang and above the magazine using Manila card stock cut to fit precisely. (The trigger guard should then have to be forced in to lock it in place during assembly. This helps keep the receiver from shifting in the stock.
  5. Check for high spots in the routed wooden stock that could press upon the barrel. Sand if necessary.
  6. Make sure the rear sight is tightened properly using the side screw. You should not be able to push it down from its highest elevation using thumb pressure.
  7. Sand the rear face of the upper rear-hand guard (the one closest to the receiver) to relieve any pressure/contact against the receiver. This eliminates pressure caused by expansion.

I performed all these enhancements within 4 hours on a Winchester-manufactured M1 with a re-welded receiver. I later took first place in the “Expert” classification in the RI state competition with that same rifle.

Eventually, I purchased a National Match M1 through the DCM (now known as the CMP). This rifle will easily group 10 shots in the X-ring at 200 yards. My best score in a 70-second, rapid-fire string was 8) “X”s and 2) “10”s. Obviously, my shooting doesn’t match the capabilities of the rifle!

Which make of M-1 Garand is the best?

Well, during WWII, there were only two manufacturers of M-1 Garands, Winchester and the National Armory at Springfield, Massachusetts. In the mid to late 50s, there were three manufacturers: Springfield, International Harvester, and Harrington and Richardson.

Now, the most sought-after are the Winchesters, followed by the Springfield made in WWII. The Winchesters are sought after because of their name and the fact that they have a smaller output. The WWII Springfields are sought after because they, like the Winchesters, were made during WWII.

Which one was better, the Winchester, Springfield, Harrington and Richardson, or the International Harvesters? The answer is they are all the same.

There is no better than the other as they were all made to the same specs, adding to the fact that they did not make all the parts. Parts, such as barrels, were contracted out. If you want a couple of good books on the development and production of the M-1 Garand, see “Th M-1 Garand:WWII ,Vol1” and “ The M-1 Garand:Post WWII,Vol2” by Scott A. Duff.

How much does buying an M1 Garand from World War II cost?

There is a reasonably wide variability in price for an M1 Garand. Depending on the variant condition, manufacturer and whether it was all original or had some replacement parts. You used to be able to buy a Garand relatively inexpensively directly through the Civilian Marksmanship Program or CMP; the supply, however, has dried up, and the gun has gotten significantly more collector interest.

A basic functioning Garand in average condition will cost around $1000.00, give or take, and it can go up from there. One in an adorable shape, probably $1500 to $2500, and a pristine, totally correct one, rarer manufacturer or a sniper variant can sell for $3000 to $5500 or more. A quick check of shows that most guns fall in this range.

Is an M1 Garand suitable for home defence?

It beats harsh language but might be, pardon the term, overkill on the ears and neighbours. Most of us do not have safe directions or backstops that are going to stop .30 calibre full-power rounds from going through your wall, the wall of your neighbour’s house, through the intermediate walls and hitting the house across the street.

If it is all you have, it beats harsh language. But you’ll be using a lot of it afterwards, both in restoring your hearing and cursing your lawyer if you aren’t sure where those rounds are going to end up.

It is very low on my list of self-defence guns but not at the bottom. Use it, practice with it, learn to reload it fast to avoid “Garand Thumb”, and keep it in that role long enough to get something else. And only use it in fatal funnels where you have a safe backstop to absorb the rounds in the interim.

The nice thing with the M1; even if you miss, the report and the crack of the .30–06 missing someone’s ear will likely cause the threat to flee, surrender or shit themselves on the spot.

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